Tuesday, August 15, 2023
The only Jew in remote Greenland sometimes feels like ‘the last person on earth’
This picturesque village on the southwestern coast of Greenland where famed Viking Erik the Red first arrived more than 1,000 years ago is about as off-the-beaten-path as one can get.
Sheep outnumber the town's population 20-1 and the only way to reach an airport is via helicopter or ship.
Yet for Paul Cohen, an American Jew who has lived here with his wife Monika for 22 years, Narsaq's remoteness is more than offset by its stunning landscapes, clean air and laidback lifestyle.
"It's the Garden of Eden in many ways," said Cohen, who is 61. "I feel like I'm living in the heart of a national park. There's this little spot of civilization surrounded by pristine wilderness and I have the unique privilege of being able to live and work here."
Greenland, a semi-autonomous territory of the Kingdom of Denmark, is the world's largest island. Located between the Arctic and North Atlantic oceans, it's three times the size of Texas. But its population is only 56,000, most of whom are Inuit, making Greenland the least densely populated territory in the world. About 80% of the island's surface is covered by an ice sheet.
The story of how Cohen ended up living in Greenland — as likely the territory's only resident Jew — has nearly as many undulations as the icebergs floating in nearby Tunulliarfik Fjord.
Describing himself as "non-observant but culturally Jewish," Cohen grew up in Wisconsin and graduated with a degree in French from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. In 1991, he moved to Germany, where he met Monika. The two have been married 32 years and live alone in Narsaq with their Japanese Spitz dog they named Mikisoq ("little one" in Greenlandic).
Fluent in four languages — English, German, French and Danish — Cohen worked for nearly a decade as a translator and producer at DW-TV in Berlin. He and Monika first visited Greenland in 1993 as tourists.
"I was just blown away by the warmth of the sun," he said. "Endless summer days. We were just amazed at what we saw, but we had it in our heads that it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We thought we'd never come back."
They did come back three years later and decided then that it was a place that they wanted to spend the rest of their lives, despite the skepticism of their friends and family.
"I think they thought it was some sort of phase," Cohen recalled. "They didn't think it would work out. It's so off-the-charts in terms of a place to live."
They bought a "fixer-upper" house and returned in subsequent years to renovate it before making a permanent move to Narsaq in 2001.
"You could say that Greenland infected us, like a virus, and we simply couldn't get it out of our system," Cohen said. "Why fight it?"
Initially, the plan was for Cohen to work remotely as a translator. However, the internet in Narsaq at the time was "glacial in terms of its speed," so the couple made a living painting houses instead.
As internet speed improved, Cohen started to get more translating projects. He formed a business called Tuluttut Translations (tuluttut is the Greenlandic word for "English"). On a website for translators to promote their services, he jokingly wrote that he "will work for blubber."
"What was unique about me as a translator was that I was the only translator people knew who lived in Greenland," he says. "I just thought it would make a fun tongue-in-cheek tagline."
Cohen has translated hundreds of articles from German to English for the English website of the news publication Der Spiegel as well as numerous academic books, including a 2014 book by German professor Marc Buggeln titled "Slave Labor in Nazi Concentration Camps," published by Oxford University Press. Most of his translation work is German to English, but increasingly Danish to English.
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